Well as the days roll by the hurricane they call Bill continues to strengthen and head in our direction.  For the past few days I told myself that we were definitely going to get some waves out of this system but nothing epic.  Well after just looking at what happened to Bill in the past twelve hours I can honestly say without a doubt that things are going to get real epic!  Bill is now a category 4 hurricane and his projected path is almost as good as it gets.  I am thinking the waves that we have on the way are going to be the best we have seen in a few year maybe even the best we have seen in the past five.  

With that being said I am going to get serious for a second.  At the peak of this swell these waves are going to be over the ability level of beginner and intermediate surfers.  When we have a long approaching system, like Bill, close to our coastline the energy that will exist within the 9-16 second period range will cause high energy conditions (very strong waves), rogue sets (extra large close out sets), and potential coastal currents (powerful rip currents) that are only experienced during decade events.  I am not trying to tell anyone what to do, all I am saying is use your head and know your limits.  On Monday and Tuesday there will be plenty of left over swell in the head high to waist range.  Don’t feel like your going to miss it by not going out when it’s huge.  Just stay safe and know your limits.
But if know your limits and you know your ready but you’re not quite sure about your board well let me tell you about the board we have hanging from the ceiling!  It is a 6’5 Rawson Hyper Hull 2 and it was pretty much made for the waves we have on the way.  Pat Rawson is a great shaper and has been in the game for a while.  Tons of experience and skill add up to boards that really work.  The Hyper Hull 2 talked to me last night on my way out the door and she is stoked for Molly swell. She just hopes that someone comes in and asks her to dance.

Get stoked. Check the XXL videos below.  Global big wave and wipeout awards.

Little Feat tomorrow and Molly Party this Saturday!